Saturday, October 11, 2014

Unexpected Treasures



People ask me all the time….why Guardia?  What makes this place so special?  



          (Video of the shortcut home in the Centro Historico of Guardia Sanframondi at night, you have to pull in the side mirrors to make this drive!!)

I always believe that everything in life happens for a reason, I also tend to overanalyze (and overcomplicate) trying to make sense of things sometimes. Guardia has become a place where I come to unplug from the daily grind ..find myself, sort things out and forget about all the trivial things, all at the same time. 





On the eve of this particular trip to Guardia, I was feeling a bit lost and nostalgic. Within a three month span, I had waved goodbye to my adventurous oldest daughter who was off to Panama for 2 years to fulfill her lifelong dream of working in the Peace Corp, celebrated my mom’s 80th birthday, and dropped my youngest son off at his first year at college. Time was flying by too quickly! When did my kids grow up? start living their own lives? .. when did my parents become old?.  I knew this would all happen.. but I had definitely not planned on being here all at once!


View of Guardia from Solopaca

I left Texas in the same way I seem to start every single trip.. finishing off a crazy work week, trying to get everything caught up at work and home before I leave, shopping for the trip with any free minutes I have, and frantic packing at midnight the night before. The pace of the last few months had been a nonstop tornado of work and family which had left me emotionally, physically and mentally exhausted. Heavy thoughts were stuffed into the recesses of my brain in disorganized piles that I knew at some point needed to be addressed.

The Tana Dell Orso B&B & Cafe

My husband Steve and I arrived in Guardia with the usual jet lag, but full of energy and excitement of being back.  The Tana dell Orso is our first stop every time we go to Guardia, and the Orso family, Anna Luigi and Pasquale, were waiting for us with warm hugs and a wonderful lunch. I still have no way to put into words how much I treasure this family that we met 2 years ago and have become such a big part of our lives.  I think we finished every day in Guardia with at least a quick stop at the Tana .. maybe for a chicken to eat for dinner (their roasted chicken is world famous!) , a cup of coffee or a glass of wine.  Mainly just say hello, and visit with friends.

Luigi's red.. my favorite!

 Other expats that bought houses in Guardia (and now good friends), Glenn & Derrick, had arrived the week earlier.. and just like that, we were off and running on our next vacation in Guardia.

Hello Boys!! 


Getting some much needed rest:

I’d like to make it sound as if every day was an action packed adventure, but a great deal of our vacation was leisurely eating our way through the culinary delights of the area and enjoying the abundant wines of the region. Now that I have my kitchen in place, I enjoyed attempting to cook a few Italian style meals.. and even hosted a Texas style BBQ in my house..


Anna Orso showed my how to cook these with these peppers.. and with a bit of coaching, I think I came close to cooking a proper Italian meal! Bon Apetit!


What started out as a few people coming over for dinner turned into a party ..Texas style, Brisket, Potato Salad & Cornbread 

Food is always a such a pleasant surprise in this region of Italy.. always the freshest ingredients, sometimes things I have never tasted, and amazing textures and flavors.






I didn’t have any big plans to do much work in the house while we were there. Since I set Pasquale up as the project manager for the house, the house is ready for me.. clean sheets, towels and basic ingredients in the fridge. I’m not sure how other people manage houses from far away, but I simply could not do this without his help. It is so nice to unlock the front door after a long trip and walk in to our cozy home.    I did have in mind to find a dressing table for my bedroom, and after hunting around several different places, found this treasure at an antique market.. Thank you to my good friend Roberto that talked them down to a great price.. and now I feel like a princess when I get ready for the day..



It needs refinishing, but I still think its beautiful.


.. and then there was there very much needed down time. My very dear friend Glenn brought me a book he had read, that he said he knew that I would love.. It is a book called “Incontinent on the Continent” by Jane Christmas. (I highly recommend it!)  It’s a story of the misadventures of a woman who brings her elderly mother on a month long vacation in Italy in hopes of resolving the struggles that accompany most mother/daughter relationships.  I must clarify that my mother is not incontinent and probably more agile than most 50 year olds.. but as I intermittently read this book in my down time, the book struck a deep chord within me, and I found myself constantly thinking about my daughter and my mother, and our own struggles as three very uniquely individual, hard headed, opinionated women. 


I came home one day to find these lemons waiting for me on my doorstep.. a gift from my friends Glenn & Derrick who picked them from their tree. (picture by Glenn T Martin)

Thank you Glenn... for the book, the lemons, and the beautiful ray of sunshine that you bring to my life!

 It seems that every time we go to Guardia now, there are expats that bought homes vacationing as well as other groups of people in town to find a home for themselves. The friendships that have formed have become a huge part of our lives .. and in Guardia, our time becomes a combination of wonderful dinners, shopping excursions (as we all try to find the items we need for our houses) and so many treasured memories.
One of many dinners at the Meridiana
Vino on the terraza at Mel & Tom's

Dinner in Cusano Mutri with the master of ceremonies 


Nothing is more fun than a day at the beach..

On this trip, the weather was simply perfect, and we made several excursions to the incredible beach destinations just a little over an hour away from Guardia..



I had been dying to see the Blue Grotto on the Isle of Capri. A group of us decided to make it a day trip, so we drove to Naples in the morning, and rode the ferry to Capri watching dark clouds forming all around us.  As we arrived in Capri, the clouds parted, and the sun came out for what ended up being one of the most beautiful days I can ever remember!  The view from the top of the funicular is stunning!! ..little shops to explore everywhere, and the bluest blue ocean. We never made it to the Blue Grotto.. but the day was perfect in every way possible… we saw all the other Grotto’s and took a swim in front of i faraglioni.


Arriving at the Ferry in Capri


Riding the funicular to the top of Capri




View at lunch in Capri


Steve & I swimming in Capri - in the background - faraglioni.  

I'm on a boat in Capri! 





Exploring the grottos in Capri






.. and no trip is complete 

Positano

without a visit to the Amalfi coast. My favorite way to go is to drive to Salerno, and catch the ferry to Amalfi or Positano.  This is a great relaxing way to see the stunning cliffside of the coast and miss the terrifying drive that is punctuated with very narrow roads, hairpin turns and giant tour buses.  Another group of us decided we would do just that. As we arrived at the ferry boat in Salerno, we sadly watched the ferry pull out of the dock just as we were walking up to buy out tickets. The next ferry would not leave for 3 hours!! We sadly walked back trying to figure out how to salvage the day.. and there in front of us was a private boat rental.. and just like that what would have been a leisurely ferry ride to and from Positano, became a most memorable day on a boat on the Amalfi coast..


Pulled into this little fishing village for an incredible meal!!


Our boat for the day

Stopped in this cave..

..and went swimming in a cave!! .. the water was really that color!


Sights along the Amalfi Coast

 We were also excited we finally made it to the great beaches on the Adriatic side.  We drove to the quaint town of Termoli, which has a Centro Historico right by the beach. The beaches are beautiful white sandy beaches (great for swimming)  .. and at this time of year are virtually deserted as the Italian’s who frequent these beaches have finished their summer holidays and are back to work.  What a great relaxing day! 

Beaches at Termoli







Exploring the Centro Historico in Termoli


Feeling like a princess in Caserta:

My husband Steve and I spent a magical day exploring the Royal Palace in Caserta.  The palace is the largest palace erected in Europe during the 18th century, and has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The palace is spectacular!! and the gardens and fountain on a horse drawn carriage.. sigh 















Exploring the neighboring towns:

One day, we just set out on a drive to Lago Matese that was supposed to be not that far away. Confident with GPS in hand, we ended up lost in the mountains near Cusano Mutri.. we had the most incredible afternoon, bumping along on some roads that I’m pretty sure are not real roads, and found some incredible sights!


Some times your lost, you go around a turn .. and then this appears!!

And some other things we found while we were lost..
                                                    (A bell choir of goats !!)


Lago Matese


I just had to put this in here.. this is actually one of a few crazy roads the GPS took us on!


Just a few miles down the road from Guardia, is the town of Cerreto Sannita, a town known for its beautiful ceramics, and with its own unique personality and fun to explore..


Cerreto


The ceramic museum in Cerreto


My neighbor Gigia giving us a tour of the museum

 Vendemia: 

I’ve been to Guardia now in spring, summer, fall and winter.. and I have to say that I think that September is my favorite time of year to go.  The weather is perfect with warm sunny days that require a sweater at night.  The grape harvest (Vendemia) is in full swing.. which means the hills surrounding Guardia are heaving with grapes as far as the eye can see.  The roads are full of small trucks transporting their grapes to market.. and there is a feeling of optimism and rebirth in the air as everywhere people discuss excitedly the possibilities of what this year’s crop will bring.  Most people in town participate in the harvest and make their own wines.. we were so lucky to be invited by our neighbors Gigia and Francesco, to join their family for a day of grape picking . I’ve been told my hard work will be repaid with wine that will be ready next year..I can hardly wait!


Festival of San Antonio - First the procession, then the fireworks. San Antonio provides the blessing for the wine harvest.


Picking grapes.. it was a lot messier than I thought! glad this was the before pic!




Our neighbor Francesco explaining us about the different varieties of grapes



Wine festival in Solopaca - wine tastings, food & music



And just like that .. and way to soon, it was time to say goodbye and until the next time.  We said our farewell to everyone with one last dinner, and the next morning we drove to Rome for our return flight home. 



On the long flight home I started thinking about how to best answer a question I received from one of the many emails I needed to respond to from someone that was interested in coming to Guardia, but not completely convinced it was all real. So why Guardia?  

My prepared response is:  the perfect location (close to 2 major airports) and incredible destinations just a few hours away, the ideal Mediterranean climate, the most wonderful people, the beautiful Centro Historico, the simplicity of life, the fresh unprocessed bounty of food and wines of the region. I could go on and on.. and those of you that have followed by blog probably think I already have!!   I think I should start asking “Why not Guardia?”
  
But my real answer is I just can’t imagine being anywhere else. Every time I’m here I discover new and unexpected treasures just around the corner, and new things about myself.  I know the road I’m on right now may feel a bit bumpy and I may feel a little lost at times, but one thing Guardia has taught me, is that I am exactly where I am supposed to be. 
So, for all of you out there, enjoy the ride and keep an open mind because if not, you might miss the unexpected treasures waiting just down the road. Take a chance on Guardia, it might just find your treasure here as well…if not here, maybe around the next corner.  You’ll never know until you actually get going.

Mom zip-lining in Costa Rica.. at age 79

To Chelsea and Mom,(the 2 greatest women I know).. maybe we aren’t as different from each other as we imagine ourselves to be.
Chelsea hiking in Havasupai Falls Arizona




Tuesday, July 22, 2014

Its Finally Time to Get Back to Guardia!!


The summer plans to go to Guardia have had to go on the backburner for a little while as I've had a crazy year of major milestones going on in our family and a hectic work schedule .. but we've finally nailed down our dates and are so excited to be heading back to the Guardia  in the next month, and plans are starting to get into high gear!

Scene from the backside of Piazza Croce

I've had a little work done on the house while I've been gone, nothing major, but needed to retile the terrace that was old and leaking, and move the washing machine upstairs to the kitchen. First there was an evaluation by an engineer who determined the terraza leak was caused by inadequate drainage. 

The before Leaky terraza


A solution was proposed and I was sent pictures of tile samples,


tile samples


a detailed budget, and drawings of what the repairs would entail via email. Once we agreed on the price and design, the project was started shortly after. I would receive daily pictures of the progress. 

Before and After



Thanks to Pasquale, my project manager and Benny, who was in charge of the work. The project was completed under budget within a week’s time. I cannot believe how great it looks!


From the Terraza to the Kitchen







Beautiful flowers and pictures - Thanks Guy Ranzino!!



In the past few months, we've had different friends stay at our home in Guardia. They’ve sent me some wonderful pictures that have really warmed my heart and at the same time make me wish I could jump on a plane tomorrow and just be there!

Welcome to Casa Kestler!!


Staircase to the Kitchen & Terraza

  

How this house was supposed to be enjoyed!! With good friends & wine - Thanks Liz Canestra!!!

.. and so the vacation count down begins!! 

The list includes..

  • A day trip to Capri
  • The ruins of Herculaneum & Mt Vesuvius
  • Visiting the Adriatic side (Bari or Termoli)
  • Picking grapes - Its Vendemia!!!
  • Enjoying good food, wine and laughter with our friends in Guardia!! 


Ci vidiamo presto Guardia!!  









Thursday, June 19, 2014

House Hunting - A Summary



House Hunting in Sanframondi Guard - A Summary


I think it's probably a good time to recap some of the information That I have in this blog since it's become a bit scattered Throughout the blog.


To get started on your house hunt, there are no realtors to contact, and so there is not a lot That You can do in advance of your trip other than a bit online network (Which I'll explain further Top down)

To get started:

1 .  Book your flight (2 Options) 



  • Fly to Naples - 1 hour away. Pros: much closer, Cons: not as many flights / connections. 
  • Fly to Rome - 2 hours away. Pros: cutting easier access to the airport and more flights. Cons: longer distance to travel

2. Book a room at a local B & B (2 Options).



  • My preferred location is the  Tana Dell Orso  owned and operated by Pasquale Bear and his family.
    You can reach him through the contact B & B website Directly or through email at His  bbtanadellorso@gmail.com    The Tana Dell Orso is walking distance to everything in the Guard and Has all the conveniences of AC / Heat / Wifi and private bathroom. The Tana Also Has a local cafe / bar and is a great place to grab a quick bite, a cup of espresso, or Luigi's homemade wine (Which is everyone's favorite!).
    Being in the cafe, puts you in direct contact with the local people and makes you feel connected to the town the minute you walk in the door. Another benefit to staying there Is that for me and others, we have found Easter to be incredibly helpful, with great advice on the house hunting process, and being Able to connect us with people interested in selling Their houses. The Bear family are some of the most wonderful people you will ever meet!
  • The other good option is to book a guest room at  Arthouse Clare run by Clare Galloway, Scottish Artist That Has Made Guard home.  


3. Decide on how to get to the airport from the Guard (3 Options);

Listed by least expensive to most expensive .. as with most things .. a tradeoff between convenience and cost. Always good to have options ...

  • Take a combination of buses and trains from Rome or Naples to the Guard. From Rome, the train runs every few minutes from the Fumicino airport to the Termini, the main train station in Rome (costs 14 euros each way). Once in the Termini station, I purchased tickets from Termini to Telese Terme.  (costs approximately 14 euros each way).  Total cost, round trip 56 Euros. There are several trains every day that will get you there, some faster than others.  The Termini station is huge! and has plenty of shops and places to grab an expresso and a panino, so not a bad place to sit and watch the world go by.

    Views from the train

    You can go to the Trenitalia website and check train schedules and prices. Pros: the most cost effective method. Cons: it takes quite a bit longer as the bus and train schedules do not always line up with your arriving and departing flights. You may need to plan on 2 extra days of travel (one day one day coming and going) and long waits between the connections.
  • Rent a car. (This is my preferred option). Costs about 30 Euros per day + insurance + gas. With a GPS system, its pretty easy to navigate. I highly recommend if you rent a car That You bring or rent a GPS system. If you think you are going to buy a map and find your way around .. good luck! You will spend half of your time trying to figure out what road you are on. If you get a GPS, get One That Will warn you of speed traps and traffic cameras. My husband got Leadfoot 8 tickets last year, and they all arrived in the mail to our home in the U.S. months after our visit. The tickets arent terribly expensive, but they add up. (The Garmin Nuvi 2577 LT free lifetime traffic comes highly recommended, preloaded with Europe and North America. I plan to buy one for my next trip.) Getting out of Rome from the airport is very easy! The rental cars are right at the terminal and you can get out of the city easily on major freeways. Getting out of the Naples airport is a bigger challenge. The Naples airport is a bit more chaotic to drive out of .. the traffic is thicker and not for the faint of heart Unless you know what you're doing. Pros: you can do a bit of exploring outside of the Guard, plan some day trips to the Amalfi Coast, Pompeii, etc. Cherreto.; Minimizes your travel time. Cons: You have to be prepared to drive a standard car (very few automatic cars and you may pay extra), traffic can be a bit stressful for Those not used to driving in a different country, and once you are in the Guard, you don 't really need a car since everything is just a walk away.


  • Hiring a driver to pick you up from the airport. If you contact Pasquale above, he will arrange for someone to pick you up at the airport for $ 300 Euros each way from Rome, $ 150 Euros each way from Naples. People gasp When They see the cost, but there is not enough business to make this a full time job, and to go to Rome at the crack of dawn and pick someone up at the airport, wait on delayed flights, pay for the gas, tolls, wear and tear on the car and occasional tickets, it's just a service I have not found anyone wants to do for less money after they've done it once. Someday there may be a transportation service to and from the Guard to the airports .. but they are not there yet .. baby steps. Pros: The convenience of not having to worry about traffic or rental car agencies once you arrive jetlagged. Cons: obviously the cost, and not having a car at your disposal (not an issue if you are on a house hunting mission). 

4. Now that you've Decided when you're going and how you're getting there .. network as much as you can . The people of the Guard are avid facebook fans and with the help of google translator to the Fact That You do not speak English and they do not speak Inglese is not an insurmountable obstacle. Be prepared, That not all things translate well through google translate, but enough to start a dialogue and make contacts. Its ok to ask questions in Inglese and they will Likely Respond in English.

Here are some of the best contacts I've found on facebook (please let me know if I am missing some)



  • Feel free to contact me (Patsy) at guardiasanframondi@gmail.com - I may not always have the answer, but can point you in the direction of someone who might have the answer.


5. Network as much as you can, but the house hunting begins when you finish arrive and can actually look at the houses .. They come in so many shapes and sizes and states of repair. It is impossible to get a sense of These houses from pictures alone.

I'll continue adding to this document to give you some idea of ​​the actual house closing process. It is not always the same, but everyone found That house has managed to close in on Their houses with a sense of wonderment That actually worked it all out .. I think it's part of the charm and magic guard .. each house has Its Own story!

You do not have to bring the money with you if you plan to buy something. Once you find your home, you will sign Likely to "compromise" similar to an offer letter and you will be asked to pay a deposit. The amount always varies, but most people wire the money Directly to the seller's bank account after they return home. The final closing is usually you months (or up to a year) later once the title is cleared and you sign "the acto." The closing costs are similar to what you pay in the U.S. (filing fees, title searches, etc..) + A onetime 10% tax on the value of the house.

I hope you find this information helpful. This is so far, the collective opinions of many who not have been down this road in the last year. You'll find it's really not that difficult once you get started!  


Happy House Hunting! 

Friday, April 4, 2014

Guardia Welcomes the World..



This is where I like to spend a few minutes every day!  (Thanks for this treasure Elizabeth C.!!)

I feel like my adventures in Guardia are starting a new chapter.  I'm no longer House Hunting or getting things set up.  I'm back in Texas, working and raising a family. Yet every day I talk to neighbors and friends that live in Guardia or have purchased a home in Guardia.. always getting the latest updates and news, responding to questions from people interested in going to Guardia to find their dream home, or simply planning my next trip. In some way, I feel like I manage to spend at least a few minutes every day in Guardia, this wonderful place that brings constant little snippets of serendipity to my daily routine of traffic, deadlines and conference calls. The house in Guardia is ready for me at a moment's notice.

People ask me if I have any regrets about buying a house in Guardia, Italy.. my answer is always the same.. "Not for a single second!!!" 



Hillside view of Guardia - Picture by Guy Ranzino

The real story of Guardia is now the new wave of house hunters arriving in Guardia from all over the world.  In the last year, 20 houses have sold in the Centro Historico of Gaurdia to foreigners.  People ask if there are still houses for sale and if the prices are still good.. the answer if Yes and Yes.


The historic table that has welcomed so many visitors to Guardia in the past year.  (The plaque was a gift to the Orso family .. so appropriate Glenn T!!)

I am amazed at how a little town like Guardia, that has remained unchanged for so many years, has opened there arms to so many different people, and made them feel right at home. 

Welcome South Africa and Singapore!!

This month alone, Martha and Carlo arrived from South Africa and within one week, found a lovely vacation home for themselves.


Wayliak and his family from Singapore and spent 2 weeks in Guardia house hunting and enjoying the many day trips easily accessible from Guardia.  After 2 weeks in Guardia, they had found a wonderful vacation home and friendships that will hopefully last many lifetimes!


Wayliak and family meeting little Orso's
Even the littlest visitors can't help falling in love with Anna (and her cooking!!) 



Also, this month.  A film crew arrived that was filming a horror film called "Janara"  The filming took place in various locations in Guardia and San Lupo.  A lot of the filming took place on the piazza by my house Piazza Croce. All very exciting for the people of Guardia!  See the link on fb...Janara Il Film for more pictures and information.


Temporary bar scene.. on the Piazza

Filming on the steps of the Chiesa del Rocco
Click on link above for historical information on the Chiesa del Rocco.. one of several significant churches in Guardia..  



I'm excited to see new life coming back to the Centro Historico of Guardia, and I go to sleep at night dreaming about the possibilities of what tomorrow will bring ..

Buonanotte a tutti!

Sunday, March 16, 2014

Upcoming Events and Updates

I  wanted to give everyone some updates on some upcoming events happening in Guardia this summer:



The Comune di Guardia always puts out a list of summer events will festivals, open air movie nights at the castle, and concerts.

If you are not on facebook and are looking for more information on Guardia, I would encourage you to do so. Much of the information available online about Guardia is communicated via facebook pages.  Although the summer events schedule is not posted yet, the City updates the above link with regularly.



For all of you art fans and artists, another exciting new event being planned is Ri-Creare Guardia, an international artistic gathering in Guardia. The even is being held July 4-6 and July 11-12 of 2014 and is being sponsored by Guardia Sanframondi Renaissance: The Art Town






And last but not least, for the wine lovers and foodies out there.. there is the 21st annual Vinalia 2014 that will be held August 3 - 9 2014.  The information hasn't been updated yet for this year's festa, but I'm including the links from last year's event.


Poster from Vinalia 2013

Official Vinalia website at: 
http://www.vinalia.info/

Vinalia Facebook page at:
https://www.facebook.com/vinalia.rassegnaenogastronomica?fref=ts


This a one of a kind week long food and wine festival sponsored by the Winemakers Club and organized by the Committee Vinalia.  The festival is an annual even and marks the culmination of the celebration of the wine harvest.  The event is aimed at showcasing the local products of the Campania region of Italy.  The lively festival takes place in the characteristic setting of the "Centro Historico" of ancient Guardia. where over thirty company sponsors come together to set a stage for a delight to the senses.  The billboard includes wine (with over 200 labels), taverns (where you can taste local cheeses, olive oils, meats, honey and bread) , taste workshops, musical performances, film screening, street performers and more...

The festival is free of charge and weaves through the ancient streets and the magical castle in the clouds of Guardia Sanframondi.

In addition to the local festivities, Vinalia offers a unique wine tasting experience with an opportunity to have a private sampling of best wines from the 16 wineries present.  Here you will get to meet with experts and producers from the region to explain the uniqueness of their wines presented, giving you a feel for the tradition and passion for wine that is so much a part of their life.
An entrance ticket is required for this event.

Another exciting event coming to Guardia is the  Gran Ballo al Castello dei Fremondo, Guardia Sanframondi, BN)  (click on link)





Saturday June 21st 

The official schedule will be published shortly. The Gran Ballo will start  with a  of a procession at 19:00 that will start at town hall and weave through the main street of the Guardia with backdrop of period music from the 1800s. Once the procession arrives at Castle Square, the Grand Ball will begin.






I'll continue to update the information as I get more updates. I'm already getting excited about my next trip, but can't decide when to go  .. I don't want to miss anything!!

Until next time Ciao!